Joke of the year
for real bruv ,this is the best joke of the year ![]()
I think itâs a form of self-talk caused by obvious frustration.
Sadly it will be though wont it, because too many arrogant people blindly tied to a brand. At least the Technics cult can be backed up with quality.
True. However, can we really compare a turntable with its simple design and relatively rudimentary operating principle to modern technological products with a whole host of embedded technologies, touchscreens, PCB stacks, etc.
The more complex a system, the higher the risk of breakdowns or defects.
Well, for something so simple, many vendors have attempted to go up against the 1210 and failed miserably, and have been for decades. So id say we definitely can compare.
Itâs mainly because for a very long time, Technics had an active patent on its technology, and it wasnât as good. But when the patent expired and it fell into the public domain, all companies such as Hampin, Reloop, etc., were able to copy and reuse the technology freely.
Hampin even improved it by offering much higher motor torques (the VL12 even reached 5 kg/cm).
And since then, most turntables released by Hampin are stable, solid, and efficient.
An RP7000 is certainly better value for money than a Technics Mk7 today.
But they arent as good are they, ive used most of them and not one of them has anywhere near the same level of feel and accuracy as the 1210.
Aside from all that this discussion is pointless and not relevant to the original point i was making about cult mentality, youâve just chosen to turn it into something else.
Accuracy depends on two parameters:
- the minimum pitch fader range relative to its length
- the measured wow and flutter rate
And youâre right on the first point, as many Hampin turntables used a minimum pitch range of +10/-10%. You therefore lost precision compared to a pitch range of +8/-8%.
As for wow and flutter rates, they are often less than 0.01% on most models.
Iâm not questioning Technicsâ quality, though. I simply wanted to say that compared to modern DJ products, the electronic design is relatively basic.
I was using the Technics example to reinforce the ridiculous concept of being part of the Pioneer cultâŚ. where at least with Technics the product you are getting is worthy of the support, as opposed to the Pioneer cult where it really isnt all things considered.
For the decks, its the general feel of the turntable as a whole, they are rarely as sturdy and often the motors have a âtwitchâ to them when youâre holding the platter still, and the release is often not quite as smooth, requiring further adjustment as the beats arenât in time. I also find the platter adjustment to be a bit hit and miss, with it being really easy to disengage the motor by accident.
The only other turntable that I used frequently back in the day other than the Technics was Vestax as one of my pals had a set & they were brilliant, canât remember the model but they had a longer pitch range than the Technics & an analogue pitch range needle dial display, In my opinion at the time they were the only other deck I wouldâve bought.
It was the Vestax PDT-5000
I still have a pair of Synq XTRM1s, purchased around 2004/2005 because I couldnât afford a pair of Technics at the time, and I got the Synqs new at a good price (âŹ600 for the pair).
I think they were the first model to come out of the Hampin factory after the Technics patent expired, and there werenât really any other super OEM models available at the time.
And honestly, theyâre still rock solid, and Iâve never experienced any jolts or anything with the platter.
The only thing I could fault them for is the pitch range, which is +10/10%, and I would definitely have preferred a pitch of +8/-8% to gain precision. I mainly use them today with MWM Phase, and it works very well.
That said, if I were to buy a pair of turntables today, I think Iâd definitely go for the RP7000 or RP8000, which offer pitch adjustments of +8/-8%.
Iâve used Technics quite a bit in clubs, and theyâre certainly very good. But like Pioneer, their prices are still crazy these days.
I used to play on those silver ones quite often and didnt like them, the pitch was too loose (felt like the pitch you get on a cheap controller these days) and i wasnt a fan of the motors either. I imagine they were good for scratching due to the torque but felt rank for blending music, as someone who also makes micro adjustments using my finger on the side of the platter, that was also subpar, the strobe dots being much nicer to get that small adjustment.
Im not against using 3rd parties, and im definitely buying a pir of RP-7s (which youâll have to prise from my cold dead hands). I was merely using the technics cult as an example that at least they do have something to shout about, whereas Pioneer fanboys often just use mental gymnastics/weak excuses to justify their reasoning for not looking at other brands.
Played on the mk7âs a couple of times and ive been impressed with them, nowhere near as bad as the internet claim. I completely understand the isolation problems and that isnât great, but all the waffle about digital pitch is completely blown out of proportion, i found them fine to mix with.
Would you replace your MK2s with Mk7s, do you think they offer enough added value compared to the MK2?
Probably not, mine are M3Dâs so have the clickless pitch and pitch reset button (i would definitely consider replacing mk2âs for that exact reason), but id have no hesitation whatsoever of buying them new if i didnt own a pair.
My partners Brother-in-law has a pair of yellow 50th anniversary mk7âs and im not going to lie, i had proper buyers envy and really want a green pair, but as ive got a perfectly working pair already its just silly.
The M3Ds were a good evolution IMO, they are quite rare to find these days compared to other models.
Yeah they only produced them for a couple of years before the mk5 came out, which i believe also switched to digital pitch, so M3Dâs are desirable as they are analogue with no click.
There are a couple of other minor changes to them like the strobe colour, the on/off switch (that turntablists dont like) and the way the text is printed on the plate.
Just get a pair of those coloured sheet metal faceplatesâŚ
Ive scratched the itch with some green control vinyl ![]()
