hello the pitch zero zone is really too big. when you want to go from 0.1 to -0.1 you have to move the fader enormously. is there no way of settling that? is it possible to get the technical guide to see if there are internal settings, a firmware update or the possibility of changing the fader? for a professional turntable is inadmissible.
Yes. It should have been smaller and/or the LED should have lit up when you’re in it. Somone I recall made the inexplicable comment that it was of some benefit to finding the zero more easily in the dark or something without the center click, but IMO that’s precisely what the quartz button is for! Hard to imagine how something like that makes its way into actual production… possibly product development people and testers too reliant on DVS or who just scratch, rather than vinyl mix DJs like you and me? Maybe Denon DJ can give you some pointers on how to mitigate it or resolve it.
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I hope that denon will react because for a product pro it’s really ugly. I mix vinyl for 30 years and it’s the first turnable that has such a defect.
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That said, how are you finding the W&F? Your units ok?
excuse me but what do you mean by w & f?
With there having no proper click on the zero pitch then i find it good for the zero pitch area - I would much like it bigger zero zone or to user adjust
Hello
Just press the reset button in this case. when mixing vinyl it’s not to stay on the zero pitch.
Wow and flutter. Slow speed changes over time on its own and faster changes in pitch, respectively.
I’m also interested in how annoying the motor overcompensation thing is that I’ve seen on the VL12 in videos is in actual use. It’s one thing to show it happening in a test, but how bothersome it is in actual mixing when the motor is fighting you, is another matter.
I presume if the speed seems very stable when you’re not touching the record and also motors don’t fight you when you’re pitch bending on the spindle, record, or platter, then perhaps some of the complaints on those issues have been either overstated or just one-off defects people experienced.
in fact I had noticed that too. I try to be delicate with the touchdown
You noticed W&F or the motor overcompensation? Because those are separate issues people have complained about. I’m not sure if the W&F was just a one-off defect someone I know experienced. They said they could see the speed wowing back and forth using DVS timecode. The motor overcompensation is documented on YouTube, but then the question is whether it’s enough to be bothersome or not. All pulse-style direct drive TT motors on high torque DJ decks will fight you to some degree or another. In my experience, you either have to use linear feedback systems (cough, old 1200s, cough) or you have to reduce the torque down to almost nothing to completely get rid of it. The VL12s seemed to be overcompensating in a laggy manner much more than other comparably-high-torque pulse motor DJ decks, though.
i was talking about overcompensation. for the rest it happens to me if I turn the platter by hand and that I press on start that the speed fluctuates the indicators on the platter are unstable.
Wait a minute… how long does speed appear to fluctuate like that after starting when the platter has already been in motion from your hand?
no once I press the start button. try turning the tray with your hand and press the start button. but let’s stay in the pitch zero topic
Weird. Yeah, that’s motor flutter and does seem to be another problem on the speed regulation system of the VL12. And it stops doing this after a while and only does this particular thing at all if the platter has been in forward motion at the time of hitting start?
Does the VL12 have a USB port or any other data port on it anywhere that you see? I don’t see one in the photos.
BTW, I tried throwing the SC5000M platter forward and hitting play, and it doesn’t do this. Apparently the motors are similar, right? So I would think there’s hope.
no there is no usb port. in all cases apparent.
Best of luck
My VL12’s W&F is about +/- 0.2 to 0.3…majorly fluctuates. This, along with the Gargantuan zero dead zone makes me want to take back out my Technics 1210M5G…except I don’t really want to overuse the Grandmasters. The VL12’s are cool but the dead zone is not.
How many story’s of the same thing are the mods going to keep on here? Can you merge all the zero zone story’s into one?
I just use abs plastic Super OEMs, but I also have TT- 200s.