How consistent are these jog wheels’ rotation supposed to be from unit to unit?
I still have three of out of the four I have used, and all have been a little different, with the latest unit being noticeably more resistance on minimum tension compared to the oldest unit. Is this sort of variation normal and to be expected for the SC5000? I want to say this latest unit’s jog may have also been sort of stuck when it first came out of the box, and then felt sort of dry and weird until a few rotations. Even now, at minimum tension this newest unit feels even higher resistance rotation around (or back spinning… stops sooner) than the oldest of the three in my possession when the oldest unit is up two notches on tension. Closer for sure than if the oldest unit is on minimum tension, obviously. The third unit’s minimum tension resistance is somewhere between the two of these. I believe the unit that got sent back was nearly as free spinning as the oldest one, as it was part of a pair.
Should I just not worry about it? I’m used to taking Pioneers apart and replacing those little rollers, changing the plastic gear cog setting, or stretching the springs to my liking. I presume the SC5000 is complicated enough inside that I should not be opening it up, but I’m wondering if it’s just the tension knob thing this is an extension of, or something needs lubing inside, or if this is just normal variation on the SC5000 and I’m being ■■■■.
Well you are anal but there’s probably variance from unit to unit. Since we don’t know the exact mechanism of how tension knob works (my guess it somehow presses/puts force on the spindle of the platter) it’s difficult to say how to make tension 100% same on all units. It would probably require the service guy to dismantle all of your units and use the same procedure on all of them to have consistent result.
I think the only reason you have problem with this is probably because you prefer the jogwheel to spin as freely as possible so you it bothers you that other units cannot spin as freely as the one that does. Others will simply use the knob to adjust their units to a subjective feeling level.
On another note: Denon’s quality control did drop noticeably since they moved their manufacturing from Japan. Many “lemons” were reported with all of SC2900/3900 and onward models.
@Reticuli@SlayForMoney
Slight variation between platter tension is normal, and in some cases a platter may benefit from a few spins to break it in upon first use. There will be a particular point in the rotation of every platter where the tension may feel more stiff, but the difference should be unnoticeable during a performance. We absolutely advise against opening the unit and making any adjustments to try and correct this.
If at any time the platter feels too stiff to move and does not spin freely, please contact your nearest support team for assistance.
Is the expected variation in platter resistance between units within the range of two units, one with tension knob all the way down and one that still has less tension than the other even at two additional notches up on its tension knob?
I suppose I should have immediately called support when the newest unit arrived from them with a stuck jog that needed to kind of be popped into place and rotated a few times. I think at the time I was sort of so shocked it had arrived so quickly that I didn’t want to bother them.
Yeah, i also had 3 units with three different resistance. One of them i send back, because at a heavier tension settings the platter would spinn free except for 25% of the way arround.
Even the two units i got now feel different. On one of the player you can really feel then resistance change with every click of the tension knob, on the other player it is pretty much free spinning till the knob is over the mid point, lets say the last 1 or 2 clicks.
Just posted this in another thread but thought it would fit here too:
I opened my player today because I had to swap out both the cue button micro switch and the button itself. It was a hell of an operation and I hope none of you have to do so soon. While the unit was open I wanted to investigate on the varying platter tension too. What I found didn’t make me all that happy. There was a lot of abrasion of the plastic break which regulates the tension inside the whole player. The problem with the varying tension results in the break shaving off layers of plastic of the jogwheel in an uneven way because you usually move the platter back and forth within a small region instead of turning it 360° all the time, which would result in equal abrasion. What helped was a proper cleaning and some grease. I achieved a much more equal feel especially in the higher tension settings, which i prefer. That being said, my deck is’t that old, neither used a lot. Broken buttons and worn out platter break at this point worry me a little…
How’d it look inside? I’m slightly used to the CDJs inside and they’re very easy to deal with in there. The SC5000 a rats nest or easy to get in and out of without automatically screwing stuff up? My newest unit seemed stuck and completely un-lubed in there when I first tried it. My first thought was it needed grease.
I found it pretty hard to dis- and reassemble the player, but then again I’m no technician or anything. I can post some pics I took if you are interested.
Yikes. There was no simpler way of just opening it up and flipping the top back on something soft to get at the jog like on a CDJ? Those pics definitely make me not want to open these up if that’s required. One of the reasons I think 1200s and CDJs have become such a “standard” is because of how easily they can be repaired. IMO they’re not quite as bullet proof as some claim, but they’re surprisingly easy to fix. 1200 has big traces. The CDJ parts are not usually expensive and are easy to get at.
Also a complete disassembly. See that big nut in the middle on the last pic? Thats the only point of connection to the jogwheel and has to be loosened for servicing.
If it is on a printed cirkit board that is a generic or multi purpose type board already exist as a whole board sometime it is easier of the manufacturers to use such board just for some of its several purposes
I mean as example that denon might have of a general pcb from a hifi cinema surround receiver that gives to the hifi Bluetooth and wifi and a color display LCD driver but they then can use that pcb it another device for just the pcb LCD color display driver features instead of designing whole another sub board.
Maybe it drive platter colour display screen only ???
Please do not hesitate to contact them, they’ll be happy to help.
