Welcome to the family. Starting on turntables in 99, I rode the tech wave from simple CD players to even the Numark DMC1 (first production MP3 controller), CDJs, Technics DZ1200, Serato & Traktor via Turntables then controllers. Nothing really felt like “home” to me until the SC6000Ms.
I still play vinyl. 
This is the Numark DMC-1. This device predates widespread USB usage.
Yeah ive also been through the CDJs etc, i had an original CDJ-800 mk1 and a pair of 1000 mk3’s back in the day. I sold them all in my late 20s and had no DJ setup for a while. I used DVS as a cheap way of getting myself back mixing as i retained my 1210s, now i just see it as the perfect way of playing my digital files at home whilst having the ability to play vinyl too.
I can see what you mean about saving space however, although in my case it would be increasing it as i would never want to lose the ability to play some records.
Started with the non motorized 5000, soon as the M version were released traded in the og 5000.
I prefer the Motorized 5000 and 6000.
I use the pitch bend button to nudge though
Hello 
i am a vinyl DJ, i love my Technics 1210 Mk5 decks and my Xone 96 mixer a lot, but i also wanted to explore the possibilities of digital DJ gear. So i went to a local music equipment shop to actually touch a few things with my hands. And they had both the SC6000 and SC6000M players on display. And i noticed that my hands were always on the motorized platter of the SC6000M player while the nice guy from the DJ gear department explained the pros & cons. Of all the players and controllers there i felt most connected to the SC6000M on an intuitive level. Maybe that is just the way i am, always at a moving platter. 
I am not a scratching DJ and i did not buy the SC6000M for turntablism - i would probably use actual turntables for that, a pair of Technics 1210 turntables and a battle mixer, because it is just oldschool-cool. 
So far i don’t regret my decision to buy the SC6000M players. The motorized platters feel a little different in comparison to my turntables, but they are much fun. The unmotorized SC6000 players look a bit more futuristic to me, which is cool too. Both models have awesome build quality, they feel really good. 
I own 2 SC5000M’s. Love hate relationship. When the motor is engaged the tracks slow down about 3% but the BPM in the display does not register the slowness and when trying to mix it becomes a serious PAIN. I use only 1 player and utilize the Layer to keep my set up smallish. I use the X1850 mixer as well to take advantage of the Digital I/O’s.When going from Layer to Layer the track that is playing will speed up then slow down when you go back to the track playing. here is an example I shared on YT Denon SC5000M Motor drag - audible - YouTube What is a bit more frustrating is that I reached out to approved repair centers and they didn’t reco i send the unit in and instead shared a website where I can by a replacement motor and said I should try repairing this myself. When using it now, I don’t have the motor running but what really ■■■■■ is that with the motor off you can’t Scratch it turns into a Jog wheel. I am currently looking for a SC6000 not the motor version . What is scary is that It looks like everything is on Back order at every site I have been on.the whole motor thing may be a hit or miss thing I don’t know. I know when they work correctly they are super dope to use. I am also a Vinyl Dj - thats what I am know for here in Chicago and most all my gigs are Vinyl sets so when I go to this unit I feel at home so would say give the 6000M a go you will have a blast using it.
It looks like you have the issue where the motor needs greasing again. This appears as inconsistent speed with the motor on.
There’s some guides on here where some users have done it themselves. It’s not a huge job but can be done.
Here is the solution by @Freddy_Gang
Needs lubing. I did both of mine earlier this year and its perfect.
@Freddy_Gang is the man with the walk through.
Dont send it in. The repair centre is going to swap the motor and the issue will re-occur later down the line.
All you need is 90 minutes, 2 beers, grease of choice and a torx and hex precision set.
You may as well lube both of it, only difference is you will need 2 more beers.
1 beer at the start 1 when you finish.
PS - make sure you get the right tools. There is slight difference in the original walk through, perhaps manufacturing changes, my units were purchased at launch, so one screw was different - the one holding the motor was hex, but mine was a torx.
other than that…easy job.
make sure you get the long necked ones. some of the nuts are not at surface level.
Not sure I’d want to use biodegradable grease.
Currently, I just turn mine on with a backpack sleeping pad or yoga mat over the players (mixer still off) for half hour or whole hour before using them. They get nice and warm without the fans even coming on. After that, they’ll hold their speed until shut down I find as long as it’s not freezing temperatures in the ambient air around them.
I should probably get around to replacing the grease with something that’s softer at room temperature, but I’ve been lazy.
Sorry, but it’s important to be very precise with this sort of things. You only need one extra beer: one before you start the work, and two for when you finish. I don’t recommend having a beer between working on the first and second player, as it may suggest that you are rewarding yourself for finishing the job but you actually have another player to do.
So it’s 3 beers in total.
The motor assembly comes with a board, its not 100% a motor issue, could be a capacitor or capacitors on the board as well. its cost me £189 per deck to have a new motor in each of mine, done by inMusic…( both my decks developed music lag when first turned on,which lasted for 10minutes to start and after a month or so became 50minutes,the issue goes if platters turned off and motor not running). I was just not bothering with using the motor until the decks had been on for an hour and from there on they seemed fine,after a while decided to just get them serviced and repaired with new motor assembly. I will get to keep the old motor and board assemblies and replace and service them as spares for the future, incase the new mortor assemblies eventually fail too. I’ve had my sc5000m’s 5 years so was not expecting them to fail so soon as my old sc3900’s are still going strong with a friend so are like 12-13years old and been hammered. If you are brave enough to get in and service them yourself go for it. Please post pictures if you do as the pictures around don`t show much detail of dissassembly and re-assembly.
@Freddy_Gang has the step by step guide with pictures on each step and they are pretty easy to follow. I can understand if it’s something people don’t want to take on but it’s the cost of grease and a little bit of time so if it’s something anyone thinks they can take on then it’s worth it.
You’ll know if it’s the grease that needs changing as the decks speed are inconsistent until the grease warms up.
If you’re a working DJ and feel the outlay is worth it then I suppose a few gigs will make that outlay easier. I can imagine the decks have paid for themselves many times over already.
Now I’m wondering if letting the units warm up under a pad is possibly bad for the electronics in there even if it does melt the grease. Don’t you shorten the life of things like resistors & caps with more heat?
- i can see the condensation from here… 
I think the added heat from letting them warm up under the pad may have actually slightly warped the vinyl. I don’t recommend that method now. Better to let them warm up for an hour without something like that over it than to let it warm up faster (and possibly get too warm) under something that traps the heat.
I do not know what kind of CPU the players have inside of them, but I think that blocking the cooling mechanisms or the air vents is generally not such a good idea. At least with laptops or PCs it is possible to fry the CPU by overheating. I think that the SC6000M has a built-in fan, there is an outlet on the left side of the chassis. I am not sure, if the system will warn you if things are getting too hot …
Even in the case that is does not damage something, heat can be problematic on stage. I have been to a hot summer festival twice, where the sun was beating down without mercy, and several acts had issues with their equipment. Vinyl records start warping at about 60°C. If the material on the platters of the SC6000M is similar, I would not be surprised if it warps too. 
And by the way, to anyone DJing in the sun, take good care not just of your gear, but of yourself as well. Getting dehydrated and sunburned is not worth it …
Rockchip system on chip ARM stuff. No side vents are blocked. The players aren’t even directly up against each other.
When it’s just sitting there idle, I suspect the chips are probably the least of the worry since they’re not doing much processing to generate their own heat. The PSU and discrete components are always generating heat, though, and the latter parts have limited life spans that are probably only being shortened by making it harder for the heat to escape.
It certainly gets warmer faster with the blue workout/yoga mat (wanna say Weider) still over the top of it after I’ve switched the players on rather than immediately taking the mat off. Makes sense the vinyl might warp considering the vinyl is at the top and the insulating mat’s right above it, so the heat’s got nowhere to go.
The other thing I noticed is the metal, plastic, and laminate layers (or whatever they all are) on the horizontal top surface around the platter (not the platter itself) temporarily creak a little bit to the touch after it warms a lot. Probably another sign of too much heat. Oh well, it was an educational experiment.
My god I got this Numark DMC-1 on PCDJ Red in the early 2000s. I think it’s probably the first PC controller in the world. Even if it was ultimately just a remote control that was plugged into a serial port and which required a mixing board.
But it worked really well and never gave me any problems. Apart from the printing which tended to fade at the pitch level. On the other hand, mine had a chrome finish and took fingerprints horribly. A real mirror
Mirror was a great way to describe the finish on that thing . It was pretty reliable, though I ended up wearing out the pitch bend buttons early.
My old sc3900 decks went to a friend in Brighton, they still have them now and when visiting I always have a little go on them, they are at least 12 years old now I I think I got them 2012ish. The motors still work great and they have been very well used. My sc5000m motors failed but were replaced when you could get out of warranty repairs in UK. Basically InMusic Brands own Rane Numark Alesis Akai Marantz etc etc even own Moog now. All their equipment is now built cheaper, they have bought up inovation and make ground breaking (FOR THE COST) equipment. Just like Behringer make cheap clones but at a good price. I still buy InMusic equipment because I can not buy the best Pioneer on my wage, so I could moan about Denons now shorter life span on equipment life cycle but this would apply to all studio budget/not budget equipment these days. DJ or Producer, I can not afford to buy a roland 303 bass line at £2000 so got the cheaper clone, same for 808 909 clones. What InMusic has done is make it affordable at a cost. We live in a throw away cheap world today. We also live in heaven or hell…you choose. At least the choice is there, to a degree… Also have to say my 1997 technics 1210’s still work…so proves things are now built cheaper,also things like solder no longer lasts as lead is not allowed and chemicals used in production back in the day did make electronics last longer. So money aside, if your rich why ask, and if your poor…Denon all day. Also…turning platter beats a jog wheel…but everyone loves buttons.
