Hi, I’ve just purchased an LC-6000 for use with Serato DJ. Prior to its arrival I have a couple of questions regarding power, is it possible to use a passive USB hub to power the LC alongside an SL3 soundcard and a DDJ-SP1, or am I better off splitting them up to different primary ports?
I currently have a 2 way splitter for the SL3 and DDJ into one port and would ideally like to swap it out for a 3 port hub and use that.
Passive hubs are ok for a mouse and keyboard or a usb thumb drive. Midi controllers should always have active powered usb hubs - led’s take a lot of power from the usb and multiple controllers will only make it worse…
Yeah I thought as much. I’m gonna connect it into the spare primary port instead.
Good to hear you already have a solution for your problem. If somebody only has a passive USB slot I assume the inlcuding power supply of the LC6K can provide some decent power too.
That is a solution. But if You have more of midi controllers that are only usb powered, it is a wise decision to get a decent usb hub with its own power supply.
I recommend Belkin and TP-link usb hubs - they never let me down, using with 7 midi controllers at the same time.
That’s definitely an option I might explore.
Although I’ve got 2 x 1210s, a mixer, effects unit, laptop, 2 powered speakers, a time capsule, a router, a NAS drive, a Sub and at least 3 sets of lights, so I’m trying to look at reducing things that are plugged in:)
Powered USB definitely the way forward
I’m going to try it in the other USB slot on the laptop to begin with, then look at a powered USB hub, just trying to find one with a single on/off switch.
Why on off switch?
You don’t need an on/off switch on a usb hub.
So i can stop power going to the devices when im not using them, if i run the SL3 and DDJ-SP1 through a powered USB hub they will continue to be powered unless i cut the supply.
In stage situation, I would never want to cut off power to any of my devices. This could lead to mistakes and issues.
If your computer is communicating with a usb device and you just kill the power to it, it can cause an error or a glitch in dj software. Seen that happen multiple times…
Just to be clear, this is for my home DJ booth, none of this stuff will ever be used outside my house. When im finished using the equipment i want the ability to switch it off so as not to use power (that is incredibly expensive in 2022). At the minute i just unplug the devices from my laptop which powers them down, id like to be able to power down the USB hub should i choose to start using one.
Fully agree with your comments about power in a club/venue though.
Status update, the LC and DDJ-SP1 work from the same passive splitter connected to one of the Mac ports, with the SL3 on its own on the other.
I’ll do some more testing tomorrow to confirm but all looks good so far.
For the sake of one less thing to worry about, there’s no real significant issue with using the mains usb supplies which came in the boxes with the LC6000s.
You are correct but i counted 16 things plugged in already, in a small 3m x 2m room, Id have to start looking for an extra extension lead to facilitate it.
Im going to roll with the USB power for now and see how it works then address the issue if it becomes a problem.
Go for it!
So many people have had too many “unexplainable” issues, which actually got explained by USB ports being (over-used) for powering devices.
Most of those issues over the years have started with “everything seems to be working fine at the beginning of my set/slot/pub gig/bedroom stream/party/wedding, but later on …. “
And it’s usually “when my hard drive has gone to sleep then has to spin up to speed again” or “when I plug my cellphone in to charge” or “when I switch on my illuminated PAC Man desk model” or “when I run my laptop usb cooling pad kicks into high speed”…. Then I notice my xxxxx loses connection, or my xxxxxx is no longer seen by the yyyyyy
There’s clearly some reasoning behind why the mains power adaptors are included in the box with the LC6000. After all the cost of the adaptor itself, the shipping weight (think multiples), the change-outs of making sure the adaptors have the correct pins for each recipient country.
For the sake of buying a $20 extension lead, I’d go for that. Well, of course, if you’re only hobbying then I guess the occasional oddity doesn’t affect anyone, but if you’re charging for your services then I’d go with the slightly more involved, but stable option.
Have you read the thread? It’s got nothing to do with ‘hobbying’ or ‘charging for services’ as I’ve made clear above, this is purely for personal use.
There is also a reason why the instruction manual states that the devices can be powered and used solely on USB, they wouldn’t have included the feature if it wasn’t usable.
Yes I did. Every word.
Best of luck and fingers crossed for you.